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Old 05-19-2010, 05:57 PM
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Complete Disassembly TM 1911 - PICTURE INTENSIVE

Hey guys...

I figured this information would be very handy for those that planned on upgrading their 1911, especially for the Tokyo Marui which is the example shown below. I"m in the process of getting ready to upgrade my TM 1911 MEU to a metal body kit along with a few other upgrades. I have searched for a few hours trying to find a site or video that provided this exact information. I figured I would prevent this headache for other individuals.

Credit to this guide goes to hkssr20det, located in Berkeley, CA and posting date of Dec 2, 2007.

The original guide did not load pictures and there for, I have copied the article over to here so that the images will appear along with the guide.

Here is a link to the original article


MOVING ON TO THE GUIDE & MANY THANKS TO hkssr20det

----------------------------------------------------------------------

So I thought I would do a complete guide on breaking down the TM 1911 completely down. Now the problem is that I no longer own a stock TM 1911, so you are going to have to bear with me as I use my PGC bodied TM 1911. So in the ensuing pictures, you will notice parts that don’t look exactly like the parts you will run into stripping a stock gun, but they are exactly the same shape, and the guide will work for any TM 1911.

So the gun I am using has been upgraded in this way, so you know what you are looking at.

TM 1911
PGC Colt Frame, Slide, Rear Sight
PGC Recoil Spring
PDI 6.01mm Tight Bore
PDI Barrel Bushing
PDI Recoil Guide Bushing
PDI Gold Cup Trigger
Nine Ball Air Seal
Nine Ball Dyna Piston
KM Hammer
KM Hammer Strut
Carom Shot Sear
Guarder Hammer Spring
Altamont Grips



Field Stripping

Remove the magazine, cock the hammer.

http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e...p/4b93564b.jpg

Next you pull the slide back until the right side of the slide lock matches the first notch on the slide.



To remove the slide stop, push it out of the frame by pushing on the post on the right side of the frame.



Now you have a completely field stripped gun.



---------------------------------------------------------------
Stripping the Slide

Tools you will need: A set of allan wrenches, a little and medium sized phillip screwdrivers.

Here we are going to completely strip the slide, hop up chamber, and the blowback unit.

The first step is to remove the recoil guide, spring and bushing from the slide. Compress the recoil guide until it clears the post it is mounted on. Then you can remove the guide, recoil spring and the guide rod bushing by pulling it out of the slide through the rear.



To remove the barrel bushing you can use the supplied tool (in the box that looks like an ammo box) or just with your fingers. Turn the bushing almost a quarter turn counter clockwise. Then you can pull it out the front of the slide.



Next push the inner barrel assembly as far forward in the outer barrel as you can. Then pull the entire barrel assembly out of the slide through the front.




The inner barrel assembly can then be pulled out of the outer barrel through the rear. This will take some force; it will not just slide out on it's own, but not too much force. A little twisting helps.



Remove the two screws through the hop-up chamber. Then you can remove the top half of the hop-up unit.



Once you have removed the top half, you can pull the hop-up arm and the adjustment dial. Ignore the tephlon tape (unless you want to create a better seal between the barrel and hop-up rubber), and you can see I am running a Nine Ball Air Seal.



Next just pull the barrel and hop-up rubber out as one piece. The hop-up rubber can then be gently pulled off the rear of the barrel.



Now we are going to work on stripping the rest of the slide. First turn the slide over and look into it. What you next need to remove is a screw from the frame that holds in the little additional piece of rail that is right in front of the blowback unit. Using a tiny screw driver (I use a set of jewelers screw drivers). Once the screw is out, just gently pull the frame piece out of the slide.




To remove the blowback unit you need to remove a single screw (with an allan wrench) from the rear of the slide. This screw goes through a separate metal piece that will fall out after the screw is removed (usually) if it doesn’t just pull it out.



Now to remove the blowback unit, you need to gently pry the slide open while pushing down on the blowback unit. I accomplish this by holding the slide right side up. I pull the slide open gently with my hands, and apply gentle pressure on the loading nozzle with my thumb through the ejection port. Another thing to remember is that the nozzle return spring is sitting on top of the blowback unit. Be careful you don’t lose the spring or crush it. Just keep everything right side up and do everything slowly, and consistently.



To remove the nozzle, remove the return spring and gently pull it out of the front of the blowback unit. It will go until it catches on the notch on the rear of it (the notch is seated in the channel the return spring sits in). Just angle it upwards at the end, it will slide out.



Moving on to the nozzle. There is one tiny screw located on the top of the nozzle that needs to be removed.



After the screw has been removed, everything can be shaken out of the nozzle. The valve blocker might be stuck a little, just use a screw driver or an allan wrench to gently pull it out. Then the floating valve spring, floating valve and valve blocker will fall out of the nozzle.



Next step is removing the piston. Looking into the blowback unit you can see the single screw holding the piston it place. Remove that and then you can pull the piston off the post it is sitting on.



The last piece to remove is the plastic cover on the piston area of the blowback unit. Turn the blowback unit over and you will see the single screw holding it in place.



Now we have completed the diss-assembly of the upper.



-----------------------------------------------------------------

Frame Strip

Tools you will need for this stage is a set of allan wrenches, a Phillips head screwdriver, some poking tool (I use a chopstick, I’m not kidding) and patience and the will to go looking for flying springs.

Step one is to remove the thumb safety. First cock the hammer, then gently pull the thumb safety out of the frame. The pins that go flying when stripping a Hi Capa are held in place on the 1911. You just need to gently wiggle the safety out of the frame.



Pull the trigger to drop the hammer. Then using a chopstick or other poking apparatus, push out the pin in the lower part of the grip, from the right side of the frame.



You can see that the pin is made in such a way that it can only be pushed out from the right side.



Once you have removed the pin, the MSH (main spring housing) will slip out of the frame through the bottom. Once the MSH has been removed you can pull the grip safety from the frame (it is held in by the MSH and the thumb safety pin). Underneath the Grips safety is the sear spring or leaf spring. This will either come popping out, or will need to be removed.



Here is a shot of how the leaf spring should look when installed correctly, left leg towards you, middle prong on the sear, with the right prong on the bottom of the disconnector.



Next is to strip down the MSH (this is what you do to change the hammer/main spring). Looking at the left side of the MSH you see a brass circle at the top, and a little Phillips screw at the bottom.



The top brass piece holds in the mainspring and plunger.



To remove the hammer spring, you push the plunger down with either a screw driver or
Chopstick, and with the mainspring compressed, you angle the tool down to push the brass pin out of the side of the MSH. The screw at the bottom holds in the lanyard loop (which wasn’t fit when I took the pictures). With the screw removed, you can pull the loop out of the bottom of the MSH. Here is it completely diss-assembled.



Moving on to the rest of the frame. The first thing to remove is the little Phillips head screw in the front of the frame, located inside the channel that the recoil spring sits in.



The second screw that needs to be removed is the allan screw that is covered by the slide lock when the gun is assembled on the left side of the frame.



The last two pieces holding the inner frame in are the two pins that run through the hammer and the sear system. Push them out from the frame from the right side.



They are also machined to have a lip on the left side, so they can only be removed by pushing from the right. Once the two pins have been removed, you can gently pull the inner frame out of the outer frame. Here is where you need to start being careful. Once you have pulled the frame a little bit out, if you look from the left side, there will be tiny little spring that is sitting underneath the valve reset tab (the silver bump on the left side of the frame when looking in from the top, this shuts off the valve by releasing the valve knocker when the slide hits a certain point). BE VERY CAREFUL that this spring does not shoot out into the wilds. If you look closely at mine, I have lost one and had to recreate it with a clipping from a nozzle return spring. I pull the frame out far enough to just start to see the spring, and then I put my thumb over it.



Once the frame has been removed, I immediately remove that little spring. Also either when you removed the pins through the frame or now when the inner frame has been removed, the disconnector will show up. I might still be in the frame, or it might have fallen out by now, etc. Just look for it and set it aside.



Now lay the inner frame so you are looking at it right side up from the right side. You will see a Phillips screw at the top. Remove this screw and then you can pull the rear frame section off the rest.




Once you have removed this piece you can look in and see the hammer and sear. Remove the hammer y just pulling it up and out. There is a metal sleave running through it. To fully strip the hammer down, you need to push out the pin that is run through the hammer (as pointed to by the pointer).



Next you remove the sear, pulling it gently off the brass sleave it is sitting on. Once you have removed the sear you can see that the brass sleave is holding in place a rolled spring that is also connected to the valve knocker (my gun is using a KM Stainless piece, the stock valve knocker does not have the opening open at the end).



Next remove the valve knocker by pulling it up and out. Remember it has a spring running through one end, and the other is inside the inner frame. So you need to pull it back and then angle it out.



Once you have removed the valve knocker, you can gently pull the brass sleave out and the spring that is held in place by it.



Next flip the frame over, and gently shake the valve locker tab out of the frame.



Almost done. Moving back to the outer frame, the next step is to remove the mag catch. Looking at it from the right side, you will see a screw recessed in the middle of it.



To remove it, using a regular screw driver, push in until you can’t any longer, and then gently turn counter clockwise until it stops. Once you have done this you can push the slide lock from the left side about halfway out, and then you need to rotate the mag catch 180% to clear a tab that is built into the side of it.



Once you make the turn you can remove it completely. Then rotate the tab back, clockwise and be prepared for the spring to take over and push the whole tab and spring out. Now the mag catch is stripped.



To remove the trigger just pull it out of the back of the frame, nothing is holding it in at this point. If you are looking to replace the trigger face, it is held in place by a single rolled pin on the top. Push that out and it will separate.



To remove the grips, just unscrew the grip screws. My gun has a PGC body so the bushings are separate pieces, a stock gun will have the bushings permanently attached to the frame. Once you remove the left side grip, you can pull the little tab with the slide lock and thumb safety pins out.



If you turn over the pin housing, you can see how the pins are held in place, and they could be changed out, but I have never tried to add aftermarket pins before.



And we are done.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Stripping the Magazine

You will need a thin rod that can poke out pins, a set of allan wrenches, and some sort of mag valve tool. I use a Shooters Design piece which has a side for a TM/KSC Valve, a side for the WA valves, and a smaller side for the fill valves.



The first step is to remove the two pins at the top of the magazine. Using a small pin or allan wrench, poke them out through the left side (the pins are designed to only slide one way). When doing this be careful that the loading lips do not fly off (they probably won’t, just a warning).




The next step is to gently pull then loading lips off the top of the mag. Remember that the follower is only being held in by the lips now, so when you pull them off, hold the follower down with your finger.



Once the loading lips are removed you can pull the rubber gas routing from inside the lips. Then gently allow the follower and spring to decompress and then pull it all the way out.



The next step is to remove the valve from the side of the magazine. I use a valve tool, since you need a tool that can fit into the two little tabs on either side of the valve button. One way is to use a very long regular screw driver, with the center section bored out to clear the button. If you are going to do GBB work, I suggest investing in an actual valve tool. Also this magazine has a Guarder Hi Flow valve, your stock valve will not look exactly the same.



Then final step is to remove the baseplate. Looking at the bottom of the mag, there is the fill valve, and an allan screw which holds the base plate on.



Once you have removed the fill valve (which can be removed with a regular screwdriver) be careful not to rip the o-ring which might be out of place from the un-screwing. The allan screw holding the bas plate on is very long. Once you have unscrewd it from it’s threading you will still need to pull it out from the magazine.

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Old 05-19-2010, 06:46 PM
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i vote sticky'ed
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19:55:46) Agent_Spencer: It's like aids and win mixed together.
(19:56:11) Agent_Spencer: It's awesome, feels great, and there's no known cure and people thought only duo on duo sex could cause it.

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Old 05-19-2010, 07:06 PM
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I second that motion...
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:11 PM
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What is "tephlon"? And where can I get sum?
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:52 AM
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Any hardware store as well as Lowes or Walmart carries it. It's very thin tape usually used around the threaded area of piping to make a better seal.
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:09 AM
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Nice post SC.

ps: Your MEU won't be the same once you modify...just an fyi. oh it's Teflon or polytetrafluoroethylene
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanMarine View Post
Nice post SC.

ps: Your MEU won't be the same once you modify...just an fyi. oh it's Teflon or polytetrafluoroethylene
once i figure out how to pronounce that, ill let you know
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19:55:46) Agent_Spencer: It's like aids and win mixed together.
(19:56:11) Agent_Spencer: It's awesome, feels great, and there's no known cure and people thought only duo on duo sex could cause it.

(23:21:15) Naga: Well, I have to get up at 7 and take my mom for a ride...
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanMarine View Post
Nice post SC.

ps: Your MEU won't be the same once you modify...just an fyi. oh it's Teflon or polytetrafluoroethylene
LOL....it better not be the same after I modify it

I'm gonna give it a try and see how it turns out. Gives me something to do with those sleepless nights we all get once in a while.

If all fails, we'll go back to the original.
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanishcop View Post
LOL....it better not be the same after I modify it

I'm gonna give it a try and see how it turns out. Gives me something to do with those sleepless nights we all get once in a while.

If all fails, we'll go back to the original.
HA ive had those for the last week.
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19:55:46) Agent_Spencer: It's like aids and win mixed together.
(19:56:11) Agent_Spencer: It's awesome, feels great, and there's no known cure and people thought only duo on duo sex could cause it.

(23:21:15) Naga: Well, I have to get up at 7 and take my mom for a ride...
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:16 PM
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Thanks for posting this! Now I wonder if you might help me with a problem I'm having?

I just reassembled one of my TM 1911 MEUs. It is stock. When I go to fire it, it works fine about 75% of the time. However, the other 25% of the time, the trigger clicks when I pull it, but nothing happens. On the next trigger pull, however, it works fine.

Something like this: Shoot - Shoot - Shoot - Shoot - Shoot - Click - Shoot - Click - Shoot - Click - Shoot. You get the idea.

I switched around the slides and frames with the other TM 1911 MEU I have, and narrowed down the problem to the frame of the one I have just reassembled. Any ideas what could be causing the problem? I have been messing with it for the past hour and can't, for the life of me, figure out out.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 05-20-2010, 09:53 PM
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Great post man; this is what AO needs more of!

Now if only the original author had pictures of his car, I'd like to see what the sr20 went to.
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:08 PM
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NICE post.....that is a GREAT "how to" post...I agree...sticky this if not already!!
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