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Old 12-14-2009, 08:20 PM
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CA SAR Taktik G3 problem

I recently bought a CA G3 from someone on here. I was told it worked, since it got here, I've had nothing but problems with it.

When I first got it, it was wired with a Deans connector. I plugged an 8.4v into it, and tried to shoot. It got through a few shots, then started to only go through a half or quarter of a cycle with each pull of the trigger, a lot like when your battery is dead. So, I charged it and tried again. Same problem. So, I thought maybe the connector was bad. I switched it out to the Tamiya connector off an old battery charger I had and plugged and plugged a different 8.4v into it. Same problem. So, since this thing is upgraded and has a Systema M130 spring in it, I thought maybe a 9.6v would work. I was wrong, still had the same problem. Now, the trigger also stuck a little when pulled back all the way, so I thought it might be some strange gearbox issue. I disassembled the GB, and all the parts looked fine. I put it back together, got everything put back into the body, went to fire, and nothing. no firing at all. Then I noticed that the wires were starting to melt. now that part might have been my mistake, I might have accidentally re-assembled something in the GB wrong, I was in a bit of a hurry. But the problem still remains, it starts making incomplete cycles after 5-10 shots.

So, does anyone have any idea what might be wrong with this thing?
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:22 PM
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Try using a stronger motor if you have one.
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:24 PM
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The motor is a G&P M160, and I already made sure it works properly.
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:26 PM
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Okay, then I am left clueless.
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:48 PM
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Hmm I had a slightly similar problem with my KWA I took it out to the first game and when I went to shoot nothing happend, I tryed 3 different batteries in it and if I kinda shook the gun around it would shoot then stop when I would move it so I checked the fuse first and saw the glass case had been busted and glass fell into the fuse and was interupting the connection

You didn't say you would have to shake the gun for it to shoot so sorry if this doesnt help =/
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:52 PM
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The fuse was removed too [I'm not sure what advantages this brings, but I see a lot of people do it], so that's not the problem. But thanks for the input anyway.
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:59 PM
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Well your wire burning could have been prevented by having a fuse. The fuse's purpose in life, if the electrical system screws up, the fuse breaks, not your gun.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:04 PM
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I would have left the fuse in, but it was already removed when I bought it. I knew what the fuse's function was, I just don't know why so many people remove them.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Bastard View Post
I would have left the fuse in, but it was already removed when I bought it. I knew what the fuse's function was, I just don't know why so many people remove them.
did you see the gun shoot fine before you bought it?
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:17 PM
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No, I didn't. The guy I bought it from lives like 4 hours away from me. But I was told it was working fine. Obviously, that wasn't the case.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:18 PM
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I had this happen to me with a CA M16 a few years ago. It was also running a m130. I ended up replacing the wiring with another brand (cant think of it but it was thicker than the stock stuff) and dropping the spring down to an m110. I assume the spring was my problem as I was running a 9.6v 2200mah in the stock and it couldnt crank out more than a few shots.

-Check the contacts on the trigger assembly and the selector plate.
-Try lowing the spring if you have a spare, Id go with a stock 300fps as a control. If it works fine with stock you may need a stronger battery.
-Check the wiring for cuts in the heat shrink as it may be shorting out somewhere. If the wiring is melting and the battery gets extremly hot that could be your problem.

Ill add more as I think of it

Last edited by tweek17; 12-14-2009 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:22 PM
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Okay, I'll check that out. I was told that a 9.6v had been used with the gun at one point with the m130 and it ran fine, but then again, I was told the gun worked too lol. Also, if it matters at all, he was using an 11.1v LiPo in it prior to me buying it. I don't know if that has anything to do with the problem, but I just thought I'd put it out there.
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Action Bastard View Post
Okay, I'll check that out. I was told that a 9.6v had been used with the gun at one point with the m130 and it ran fine, but then again, I was told the gun worked too lol. Also, if it matters at all, he was using an 11.1v LiPo in it prior to me buying it. I don't know if that has anything to do with the problem, but I just thought I'd put it out there.
I run an 11.1 lipo on my gun and the difference is huge to 9.6. It is much more responsive to trigger pull and the rof is way better. I run a m120 @ 390FPS, but then again it still works on a 9.6
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:34 PM
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I don't doubt that a bit. The difference in an 8.4 and a 9.6 is huge, so I'm sure another 1.5v would make a big difference. I just thought that maybe the higher voltage might hurt the wiring after a while.
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:51 PM
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Just thought I'd give a bit of an update, I have fixed the problem for now. I took the wiring from a JG G3 (with the fise and all, I cut it off right at the gearbox) and attached it to the existing wires right outside the gearbox on mine, replaced the Systema M130 with the spring from the JG G3, and I dis-assembled and re-assembled the gearbox. It is now firing correctly. Thanks for all the help guys.
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