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Old 01-29-2014, 01:16 PM
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Requesting info on Lipo batteries

Dear friends,

I am new to the lipo batteries and I am just requesting some information about them and their corresponding chargers. To give you some general knowledge, I run a 2009 Systema PTW with mainly a blue cylinder. The back is wired to a large tamiya connector. Over the past 4 years of owning the PTW, I have only been running the Systema 9.6 battery

Here are some of my questions:
1) Do I have to rewire the back to deans? if not, what are my options?
2) Why are there 2 connectors on Lipo batteries?
3) Do I need to purchase a butterfly or tri-panel battery to fit in a crane stock?
4) What are the differences in Lipo chargers? I see some with a display screen and others without
5) What does it mean when some are 20C, 25C, etc...

If you have any other other suggestions as far as things to watch out for like care or using it to a certain degree, I would greatly appreciate it!

Thanks!
- Rooster
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:29 PM
TheoryManNotOn TheoryManNotOn is offline
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You don't need to rewire to deans, I use a lipo that has a tamiya connector, the store I bought that battery from was able to switch the connector on the spot.

There are two connectors because one goes to your gun and the other connects to the charger. For safety reasons when I charge my lipo batteries I make sure to put them in a lipo safe bag. This is to prevent any possible fire from spreading. I've never had a fire from one and don't know anyone that has.

The stick lipo I have fits in a crane stock, it can actually fit in the buffer tube if need be. I also use a brick lipo for my KWA since their stock has a place for it.

My charger is nothing fancy just a lipo/li-fe charger, it doesn't have an screen just a little light that turns red or green. Pretty simple, works great.

Here's an explanation for the C rating. https://www.commonsenserc.com/page.p...explained.html
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:59 PM
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If you were not already aware of the trade-offs, keep in mind that the Lipo battery will increase your performance while quickly degrading your motor. Personally I do not favor Lipo batteries because I do not need the increased Rate-of-Fire and my FPS is optimal (330-340 FPS), and I don't necessarily have the funds to repair and replace my internals every year or so.

Personally, I just find them unreliably powerful, but I don't have a lot of experience with them in the first place, so this is really just my opinion. :P
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:22 PM
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I've been using Lipos for a couple of years now with no issues. Personally the increase in trigger response and better resistance against the cold is worth it.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:32 PM
TheoryManNotOn TheoryManNotOn is offline
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Also, keep in mind the difference between an 11.1v lipo and a 7.4v lipo. A 7.4v lipo will most likely not increase your rate of fire and will not wear out the motor or gears quicker.

11.1v lipos will put more wear on the gun but if you have good gears and motor you should not have any issues other than regular wear and tear. If you think about an 11.1v lipo also look at fuses.
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:32 PM
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LiPo vs LiFePo4 vs NiMH:

http://www.airsoftohio.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=47615
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:52 PM
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For those not privy to PTW's, please understand that using a lipo on one is a different story than with your typical AEG. I suggest OP visit a PTW forum or custom PTW shop before choosing to run one since many users have found it necessary to switch ECU's and other components to run Lipo's effectively.

A little additional info. As you may be aware, NICD/NIMH packs come in increments of 1.2V. This is because each cell that comprises that pack has voltage of 1.2V. When you combine those cells together, say eight of them, you get a total voltage of 9.6V. LiPo packs work in the same way, but with each individual cell have a much higher voltage. Typical lithium cells are 3.7V each. So a double cell would be a 7.4V and a triple would be an 11.1V. Lipo's also have a much higher peak-peak voltage per cell than NIMH batteries, so while not under load your typical 7.4V battery will actually have a higher voltage than a 9.6V battery. Those C rating you mentioned (20, 25, 30, etc) are the ratings for how much a Lipo battery can discharge when placed under load. The article linked above has a pretty cut-and-dry explanation of what that number means. This is important though because most NIMH batteries rarely exceed a 15C discharge rate. So under load a Lipo battery will have less voltage drop than a NIMH. This is where that increased performance and efficiency comes from.

But like I said, PTW's function differently than typical AEG's. Seek out that help somewhere that is specifically geared towards PTW users.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drone View Post
If you were not already aware of the trade-offs, keep in mind that the Lipo battery will increase your performance while quickly degrading your motor. Personally I do not favor Lipo batteries because I do not need the increased Rate-of-Fire and my FPS is optimal (330-340 FPS), and I don't necessarily have the funds to repair and replace my internals every year or so.

Personally, I just find them unreliably powerful, but I don't have a lot of experience with them in the first place, so this is really just my opinion. :P
...Care to elaborate more on this? I've never heard of a lipo battery destroying a motor. To the contrary, I've seen underpowered NIMH/CD ruin motors. Additionally, "faster" batteries literally have zero bearing on how much FPS your gun has. FPS is entirely dependent on your spring and compression.
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:41 PM
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Thank you everyone for this helpful information.

Does anyone have any comments on chargers? And most people I've talked to said to get a warning light to not de-charge the battery too much. Can someone elaborate on this?
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:24 AM
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I meant on an unupgraded poor-man's AEG like mine, the pressure from the increase in performance can deteriorate the gun's internals over time, especially as my gun is not meant to run a Lipo battery.

I should have specified that there are guns (like mine) that are not built to handle a Lipo.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster View Post
Thank you everyone for this helpful information.

Does anyone have any comments on chargers? And most people I've talked to said to get a warning light to not de-charge the battery too much. Can someone elaborate on this?
Most chargers, even the ones less than $10 have a dead cell indicator on them. I used a cheap one like those sold at HobbyKing for several years, and recently bought a Tenergy charger for roughly 25 bucks. I honestly like the Tenergy better, but I'm biased since I sell them.

And for the discharge indicators. Like I said, since you have a PTW you will need to upgrade either your ECU or some electronic component in your gun to run a Lipo. This is because the current and/or voltage need to be further regulated before they drive your electronics. These electronics typically have a discharge indicator built into them. Most modestly advanced mosfets these days have them built in as well. The only advantage a PTW user will see from using a Lipo is increased shots per milliamp-hour compared to a NIMH since Lipo's typically provide 1.5-2 shots per milliamp-hour whereas NIMH typically only provide atmost 1.5 shots per. That and Lipo packs are typically much smaller and weigh much less.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drone View Post
I meant on an unupgraded poor-man's AEG like mine, the pressure from the increase in performance can deteriorate the gun's internals over time, especially as my gun is not meant to run a Lipo battery.

I should have specified that there are guns (like mine) that are not built to handle a Lipo.
I don't want to be that guy, but this is false. There is nothing more special about a gun like KWA that makes it more "Lipo ready" than a JG. Lipo provides a high-current discharge which is important for airsoft guns since they pull upwards of 30amps in power. The most commonly used NIMH battery packs can't come close to providing this power. As such, in my many many years of teching guns, I've seen FAR more guns destroyed by NIMH than I have from a lipo. Running a 7.4V is no more stressful ROF wise than a 9.6V, all it does is provide all the current your gun demands without the negative heat buildup while improving trigger response.

I'll put it this way. Switching to a 7.4V LIPO is VERY similar to running a 9.6V NIMH because both batteries have roughly the same voltage under load. Its important to note that current, in amps, affects trigger response while voltage affects the rate of fire.
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Last edited by Spectre; 01-31-2014 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 02-01-2014, 05:25 AM
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I'm use this charger
http://www.softair31.fr/media/catalo..._softair31.jpg

I make additional connector for T-type, and charge the batteries without problems. There is 2 switches installed in it. One of them for output power, and second - for number of blocks in the battery. My Lipo is ak-type, with 3 blocks. For charging I use output power in 0.5 A, and select 6 blocks. There was over 60 cycles of discharge-recharge, and have no problems.
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