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Upgrade Guide

The Art of Upgrades

A guide for internally modifying your AEG, do-it-yourself and conventional upgrades

Written by Pierce G., A.k.a. *Aqua Donkey*

-Overview of upgrade possibilities
-Electrical Upgrades
-Barrel and Hop-up Upgrades
-Gearbox Upgrades
-DIY Modifications
-Barrel + Hop-up
-Mods I have used


Why do we feel the need to upgrade? To obtain the advantage? To elevate our game? To extend our abilities? To answer this, yes, upgrading your Automatic Electric Gun will give you certain advantages over the enemy depending on how you upgrade your gun. This guide will hopefully open the doors to your mind about upgrading your AEG using conventional enhanced parts, or do-it-yourself modifications if you are thrifty. Personally, I have had experience with both of these and of many kinds. This will contain my two cents on upgrades, as well as tips, guides, and ideas for you. In end result, hopefully you can use this guide to your advantage, and make your AEG a “newbie-pwning machine” or just a fine work of art. I will also be adding in examples of parts and modifications that I have had experience with.

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..::Overview of Upgrade Possibilities::..

When you first think about upgrading one of your guns, you should definitely try to create a goal; what do I want my gun to excel at? There are myriad upgrading options, here is a broad spectrum of upgrades. Later in the guide, it will be far more in depth.
- Barrel
- Hop-up
- Electrical Components
- Compression parts inside the gearbox
- Mechanical parts inside the gearbox

At this point, you should have an idea of where you want to go with your AEG. Do you want to have a high FPS? Do you want it to have a high ROF (rate-of-fire)? Do you want endurance so you do not need to worry about your gun breaking? Do you want more range and accuracy? All of these can be associated with what role you play or are trying to replicate, whether it being a standard rifleman, support, sniper, or anything else. Also, take in to account of what your field is like, maybe if there are only going to be closer-quarter engagements, you should focus on ROF. Or if you play on a more open, mountainous region, you should focus on having more range and accuracy. Once you break it down into these categories, you can still be more specific. For example, I want more range and accuracy. But there is a certain point in my accuracy where I desire a spread of the bb’s to make a more effective support role. You would focus on your barrel and hop-up, but make a change in a specific part to obtain good accuracy, and purposeful in-accuracy at a certain range.

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..::Electrical Upgrades::..

In most cases, electrical upgrades are a more cost-effective way to enhance your gun. While you cannot obtain a higher FPS with electrical upgrades, I would say that upgrading electrical components can increase your ROF and the longevity of your gearbox.

..::Wiring Options::..

Changing your wiring can be an easy and cheaper method to get enhanced results. Most guns, especially clones, come with 18-awg wiring. This wiring is stiff, and does not transfer the flow of electricity the most efficiently. You can get better quality 18-awg wiring if you like having stiffer wiring that can bend and conform to your liking, such as getting silver wiring instead of copper. The most common wiring upgrade would have to be installing Deans brand 16-awg silicone wiring, a.k.a. “wet-noodle” wiring. This wiring has a much lower resistance, and is also far less stiff. A downside of this is that it does not stay in place because it cannot hold its form. Even so, that is opinion whether it is bad or good. From installing this wiring, you will most likely obtain a greater ROF, maybe 1-3 RPS (revolutions-per-second). I have this wiring in one of my AEGs, you can find this in 3ft sets on Ebay for $6 shipped.

..::Connector Options::..

All but a few guns come standard with Tamiya connectors. Whether it be large or mini connectors depends on the gun. These connectors are standard in most electrical hobbies such as RC cars and helicopters too. They do their job well, but if not soldered well enough, they can come very loose or even fall off. They are also not the most efficient connectors in the realm of electric flow. Deans connectors rank supreme over Tamiya. Upon installation, a 1-3 RPS increase can be expected. I have Deans connectors on all but two of my batteries (2/6) but will complete converting all of my guns soon. These sets can cost anywhere from $2-5 a pair depending on where you look. Ebay is the best option; you can get 5 pairs for $11 shipped if I remember correctly.
..::Motor Tabs and Related Parts::..

You cannot do much with these parts, but one reputable company, Prometheus, offers gold connector pins and motor tabs. As you may know, gold is an excellent conductor and will work great on AEGs. I have no experience with these, but I thought it might be worth mentioning
..::Mosfets and Capacitors::..

One of the newest trends in upgrading AEGs has been installing Mosfet systems and Capacitor Banks. These upgrades will increase your ROF a hefty amount, up to a 30% increase in some cases. A Mosfet is a single component that attaches to your negative wiring. In essence, you solder a couple leads on and these babies will ramp up your ROF as well as help prevent arcing on your contacts, which is a bad thing. A popular variation to these is the Active Breaking Mosfet (or AB Mosfet) which has a positive and negative component and is more difficult to install. The Active Breaking technology immediately cuts off the current as soon as the trigger is released so there is no motor over spin and a crisp, sharp tone coming from your gun. These Mosfets are even more beneficiary and will help protect your contacts even more. Capacitor Banks are also becoming more popular. In layman’s terms, it is like a single battery cell with negative and positive leads. It stores extra charge from your battery which increases battery life and ROF, you will even be able to shoot a couple rounds with your battery unplugged! Capacitors are proven to increase your ROF by up to 20% alone. Please make sure you install all of these correctly, Capacitors are dangerous if the polarities are reversed and Mosfets will short out if installed wrong. I have experience with both of these; I am installing an AB Mosfet into one of my guns as well as one for a friend. I also have a capacitor too, although it is too big for my gun (it is the most powerful: 16v 22000uF). Mosfets are cheapest when you buy them from 1st party producers, such as people who make a couple to them to sell on forums. I bought mine from TAMU John from AirsoftForums with the Capacitor and two Poly-fuses for $42, alone the AB Mosfet was just $24 compared to manufactured ones which range from $50-100.


Depending on your perspective, you may not consider buying a better battery an upgrade, but I do. In my opinion, batteries are often over looked and people buy them just because they need them without looking to see how powerful they are.
Here are just a few tips:

- Good cell brands (in popular order of effectiveness) include: Elite, Intellect, Sanyo, and Powerizer. If your battery is not one of these brands, then it probably isn’t that good. The equivalent battery with one of these companies cells will out-perform your battery.

- Some people say that Powerizer is not a good cell producer. In my opinion they are very good, not as good as Intellect or Elite, but some of their batteries are great. For instance, my 9.6v 4200mah Powerizer battery outperformed my Intellect 9.6 3600. You may think, “Well it has more Mah so of course it will be better”, but in a smaller margin of difference like that 600 Mah, it is basically the same.

- 9.6 batteries are substantially better than 8.4’s. There is no reason why you should be scared that your gun can’t handle a 9.6. Of course, because your gun is shooting more, your parts will wear out faster, but we all will die eventually right? Most importantly, most guns cannot pull springs shooting harder than 450fps without a 9.6. Even at 400fps, if you are using an 8.4, your gun will shoot slower than a springer, well in reality, just really and undesirably slow.

-Lipo Batteries are AMAZING! Although they exceed Nimh and NiCd batteries in almost every aspect, they do require extra maintenance. Be sure your gun can handle one too, they offer a way higher discharge rate than other batteries. Lipos come in 7.4V and 11.1V, but the performance can be measured by the number of “C”. A 30C Lipo will produce a crazy ROF, while 12C is like an 8.4 large battery. The only gearboxes that can handle them stock without much question is KWA and Systema Drop-ins.

-With extremely high discharge rate batteries, Tamiya connectors will heat up as well as wiring because of their resistance levels, so make the switch to Deans!

*Just one more thing about batteries people. I felt I should mention this because I almost burnt my house down and ruined a great battery: DO NOT CUT BOTH WIRES AT THE SAME TIME WHEN CHANGING CONNECTORS OR ANYTHING! You will see a big spark, and lots of smoke, and you will be scared ****less. I know this is a common rule, I knew, but I forgot, and I almost lost a huge battery because of shorting out, and I almost lit my Christmas tree on fire.*

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..::Barrel and Hop-up Upgrades::..

Oh goodie! My favorite part! I say this because I always upgrade my barrel and hop-up first thing in new guns, here is why:
- B&Hup upgrades DO NOT stress the gearbox, which is obvious, and good.
- B&Bup upgrades are the only substantial thing that will increase your accuracy and range. What matters if you are shooting 450fps but cannot hit a target 120 ft away?
- B&Hup upgrades can be cheap, but still very effective. Of course, you can spend a lot of money, which will increase your performance a lot more.
- With these upgrades, you don’t have to worry about opening your gearbox. Hop-ups are a lot easier to work with than Gearboxes.

..::Barrel Upgrading Options::..

When changing your barrel, you have some things to consider such as the bore of the barrel. Here are some companies and what barrels they produce (This is in popular order from Best to Worst):
PDI, 6.01 and 6.05
EdGI, 6.00, 6.01, 6.03
Prometheus, 6.03
Nineball/Laylax, 6.03
DB Customs, 6.01
Guarder, 6.04
KMTN, 6.04
Madbull, 6.03
Systema, 6.03
JBU, 6.03
Tanio Koba Twist, 6.03 (has rifling, but cannot be used in over 330 fps guns with hopup)
G&G, 6.04 (comes stock with G&G guns)
Classic Army, 6.04
CYMA, 6.04 (comes stock in newer CYMA guns)
STAR, 6.05 (comes stock in STAR Guns)

As you can see, tightbore barrels usually range from 6.05 to 6.01 (or even the extreme 6.00). Standard bore barrels are usually from 6.07-6.10, the most popular being 6.08. Now here is the controversial part of barrels. I have heard a great deal about difference in bore. It is not the tighter the bore, the better barrel. It is the tighter the bore, the more better groupings and FPS gain. The larger the bore (still tightbore, like 6.05) the better the range. Now this is just a myth, so don’t attack me for it. And you cannot compare a PDI 6.01 to a STAR 6.05, I mean comparing both PDI barrels. Another subject of controversial matter, is that barrel length does not matter in airsoft. I support that to some extent. I believe of course, a 510mm barrel is going to be more effective than a 155mm (same bore), but when the difference is like 50mm, I do not believe there is that much difference. So far, I have had experience with three different tightbore barrels: Prometheus, Madbull, and CA (yes, I measured the bore of my CA G36 and it was 6.04). The Prometheus is best by a long shot, but it is also $20 more expensive than the others (but that is a step you should definitely take). The Madbull barrel did not perform that much better than my stock barrel in my CA G36. It was not a waste of $30, but not near as effective as the Prometheus. The CA was just a stock barrel, but had very good accuracy, better than the Madbull, but not better range. The Prometheus barrel for a 510mm is $65 I think, the Madbull and CA can be found for $30. Keep in mind that Prometheus raises price in ascending barrel length. Also, the in the case of barrels, the brand means everything (well a lot). Don’t go out and buy a Madbull barrel over a PDI because the bore is smaller. Prometheus and PDI barrels are made a lot better than any other barrels, they are stainless steel, unlike the cheaper metal (brass) that the others use. Also, some of the cheaper barrels (madbull, JBU, KMTN) have Teflon coating which will wear out and render performance to a minimum after extended use.

..::Hop-up Buckings::..

Just to say, many inexperienced people confuse the Hop-up and Bucking, well, they are very different. Anyways, Hop-up upgrades are also very beneficial like barrel upgrades, and are relatively cheap. The bucking, a.k.a. “hop-up sleeve” or “hop-up rubber” is a smaller piece that fits over the barrel. A portion of the bucking covers a hole in the barrel where the nub pushes the bucking down to pressure the bb (thus, the whole hop-up design). When the bucking is pressured down, it creates the backspin, which is the whole point of hop-up, and without it, airsofting would not be as fun, so let us all thank the bucking and nub! Now you might say that there is no difference in a piece of rubber, but they are a great difference in brands. Here are some brands in most popular order from best to worst:

TM (stock bucking)

I have experience with Firefly, Prometheus, Systema, and Madbull. The best was definitely the Firefly, but they can cost $16 which is almost three times the cost of the Systema bucking. The firefly is very fragile, it ripped horribly, but it performed so nicely. Coupled with my Prometheus barrel and Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber, I was getting 200+ ft shots easy shooting 300 with .25 TSD bbs. The Prometheus bucking is the replacement for the firefly and is amazing, but just not as good. The systema is just a step up from the standard bucking and the madbull is just bleh….it’s okay I guess. Keep in mind that there are Hard and Soft variations, DO NOT GET A HARD BUCKING unless you are shooting around 500fps or higher, if you use one under this fps range, your gun will just plain suck. All of these buckings I have used cost from $6-$16.

..::Hop-up Nubs::..

The nub is a vital part of your hop-up assembly, it presses down onto the bucking which gives it the backspin. Nubs are overlooked, well, they are pretty standard, but a Prometheus nub will be a little better than an Echo1 nub, I can guarantee that. I want to talk about nubs specifically to mention the H-nub. This nub has a groove cut into the middle so that it centers the bb inside it resulting more consistently straight shots. Element and Big Out make H-nubs, the Element can be found for under $5 in a two pack, and the Big Out is $11 for only one. I doubt there is much difference between the two.

..::Hop-up Chambers::..

Hop-up Chambers are also a good component to consider upgrading. Not all gun models have aftermarket chambers, but some do such as the AUG, M4, G36, AK, and maybe a couple others. The most well known upgrade chamber is most likely the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber. It is the standard step to greatness in m4 chamber options. Guarder and Systema also rival Prometheus in this realm, especially Guarder which some say it is better than the Prometheus in over-all “bang for your buck”. While the M4 has the most chambers available, Prowin makes CNC’ed chambers for the AK and G36 known for its shocking bright blue metallic appearance. Basically, all of these upgrade chambers share the similar quality of being full metal, which is believed to increases consistency in compression. I have experience only with the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber, and will soon by the Prowin G36 hop-up chamber.

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..::Gearbox Upgrades::..

The most upgrading potential lies within the gearbox. I do not want to deter you, but I believe the most effective upgrades lie elsewhere, but nevertheless it is important to know how to upgrade your gearbox and replace parts. Every piece in the gearbox is replaceable not all can be “upgraded”. The parts of the gearbox can be broken down into two categories; Compression and Mechanical. From these two categories, you can decide the route of upgrading you want to choose whether it be one or both. Here is a list of parts and which category they fall in to:

-Cylinder Head
-Air Nozzle
-Piston Head

-Gears (Bevel, Spur, Sector)
-Tappet Plate
-Anti-reversal Latch
-Pinion Gear
-Spring Guide

With these categories, I will break it down into two sections and give you an idea on some upgrades.

..::Compression Related Upgrades::..

In the compression sector of the gearbox, there are not many upgrades to increase performance but more so to maintain perfect air compression and keep things from going wrong that result in inevitable fps loss. The Cylinder, Cylinder Head, and Air Nozzle are parts that can’t really be upgraded, one company might be made a little better than the other, but there is not real performance difference. The only time where one of these should be changed is when a barrel length is changed. The cylinder with the appropriate design should be installed to prevent an fps loss. But it is not a must because you will only lose 1-5 fps in most cases unless you are changing a barrel with a difference of 200mm or more from your old barrel. The Piston Head is one part that can make a difference. There are silent Piston and Cylinder Head sets that will make your gun less audible, but it is recommended to not stray beyond 350 fps with these parts, although this is only believed by some. Silent set-ups also create an air-brake effect which lowers fps, but increase gearbox durability with an air cushion every revolution. Some Piston Heads, like the Systema Duracon Piston Head have been proven to increase fps from 5-20 fps in some cases, I for one can recommend this part. O-rings are crucial to your guns performance. One event, my g36 should have been shooting 430 with .2’s, but instead, because of a bad o-ring, it chrono’ed in at a steady 295. It is important to replace your O-rings every couple times you open your gearbox, just so you have a fresh one with a good seal. A newer product that has been starting to replace O-rings is X-rings. These are very similar but with a slightly different design to give your gun “perfect compression” and will allegedly “increase your fps by 80” (yes, that is a direct quote from a seller of these). I have heard these X-rings aren’t that great, and do nothing no where near increasing your fps by 80, but we will see as they become more popular.

..::Mechanical Related Upgrades::..

As far as upgrading, there is a lot more potential in the mechanical area of the gearbox compared to the compression related parts. There are two basic paths you can take when upgrading this part of the gearbox; A ROF based set-up or an FPS based set-up. In reality, to increase FPS, all you really need is steel bushings, and the spring of your choice, but it is advised that you get a better motor with more torque as well. But most people will go all out. For this, you can pick up a set up torque-up gears, torque-up motor, durable polycarbonate piston, metal spring guide with bearings, and the spring of your choice. The Tappet Plate, Anti-reversal Latch, and Pinion Gear are pretty much the same between companies performance wise, they are just parts that need to do a basic job. For an all out ROF based set-up, a high-speed motor and high-speed gears are great to have, as well as a light but durable polycarbonate piston and a relatively lower powered spring. The main difference between high FPS and high ROF in the gearbox is the motor, the gears, and the spring. From personal experience I have had great results from these parts:

Systema Bearing Spring Guide
Systema Duracon Piston Head
G&P White Polycarbonate Piston
PDI 150% Spring (around 350 fps)
Guarder Revolution High-Speed Motor
Prometheus Bearing Spring Guide
Guarder Flat Ratio Gears

There are many great aftermarket parts, but many stock gearboxes have great parts such as the CA gearbox. The yellow piston is remarkable as well as the gears. After owning a CA G36 for a couple years, the piston and gears had no wear. I don’t have the piston anymore, but the gears are still in the gearbox and are working with many upgraded parts. Another thing I would like to cover is the use of Aluminum Pistons and Piston Heads. Personally, I don’t know why someone would use aluminum parts. This is what I think:

-They are heavy, thus reducing ROF
-Polycarbonate parts are durable enough for just about all gearbox set-ups, if you are doing something extraordinary, just get a Supercore Piston
-Aluminum parts are louder, which is sometimes a wanted trait, but usually not.
-They can’t be malformed, but they do break, and when they break, they take the rest of your gearbox with it. (metal shards getting stuck in your spring, gears, and cylinder doesn’t sound to good, right?)

That’s just my two cents, I personally don’t see my self ever using Aluminum Pistons or Piston Heads.

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..:o-It-Yourself Modifications::..

DYI modifications are great if you need to save money, or get a specific characteristic that a normal part can’t get you. There are mods for all parts in an AEG, some are easy, others take skill. I won’t be going too in depth because this is not a step by step guide (Although I will make some).

..::Gearbox DIY Mods::..

Here’s a list of some modifications and a brief explanation.

-Short stroking a Piston: This is used to obtain a higher ROF. By eliminating teeth on a piston, you reduce the amount of time taken to pull back the spring all the way. Because of this, for every tooth you shave, you will lose a good amount of fps, around 10 or so per tooth. Keep in mind, you will need to shave down the pertaining sector gear tooth to compensate for the loss of piston teeth. If you do not do this, you will have an incorrect AoE, and…..well…let’s just say things that you don’t want to happen, will happen.

-Swiss Cheesing a Piston: This is used also to obtain a higher ROF. It is a simple process in which holes are drilled in the piston to decrease overall weight. This might also decrease piston durability if drilled in a bad place like the backbone or structural center of the piston.

-Sector Chip: I do not know if this can be called “DYI”, but some people do make them. A Sector Chip is a little bit that attaches to the sector gear to increases feeding consistency in high ROF set-ups. Some manufactures make them like Element and Big Out.

-Spring Cutting: The lazy way to lessen the power of your spring. I really do not know why someone would do this, as it seems kind of hit or miss, but I hear it can work right sometimes. I think each coil cut is like a five FPS reduction, or it might be ten. Also, each company’s springs are different, so results may vary a lot.

-Gearbox Polishing: Polishing the gearbox shell might be beneficiary but most likely in a small amount. This will remove all metal shavings common from general use. Good spots to polish are the piston rails and the area around the gears.

-Teflon Taping: I have also heard some people wrapping Teflon tape around the cylinder head and cylinder head shaft to promote a better seal. It works in other parts of guns, but more of that later.

-Gear/Motor Break-in: This will break-in your gears and motor and harden them up to hopefully make them stronger. Do this by first removing the cylinder assembly so all that remains is mechanical parts (also remove the tappet plate though). Then find a 4.8v battery and run your gun with just the motor and the gears running for about a minute straight with 30 second break intervals. Do this for 5 minutes total run time, this should increase the durability of your gears.

-Sorbothane Pads: These are small pads you buy to place between your piston head and cylinder head. These are also a newer modification like X-rings. Upon installation, you can expect less gearbox stress and a quieter gearbox (allegedly of course).

-Molybdenum Grease: After asking my dad for white lithium grease, I found at that we had nothing but his Molybdenum grease. We figured it would be safe for the gearbox, so we used this as a substitute. Basically Molybdenum is used in planes and really fast cars, so it is super durable and will not evaporate. I recently regreased my gearbox normally and found no negative effects from molybdenum grease, so I say if you have it, you can try it, it is safe. I just thought this was worth mentioning.

..::Barrel and Hop-up DIY Modifications::..

-Teflon Taping: Just like taping the cylinder head for better compression, this can be done to the hop-up unit to prevent better seal. For starters, you can wrap a layer around the barrel, and then slip the bucking over that and continue by wrapping the whole bucking. This will make it difficult to fit the hop-up unit on, but this mod will help with compression.

-V-Hop Nub Modifications: Basically, this mod is taking a regular hard nub, and simply cutting away to make a V or H shape into it. This is a lot easier to do with hard nubs instead of soft rubber ones. I have tried this and it worked ok, I did not notice much of a difference in groupings.

-Nub Padding: This can be done to pressure the bucking onto the bb more if desired. I used a small piece of super glue that I formed and simply inserted before the nub, so the nub still had contact to the bucking, but had another layer so it can be pressed down more if desired.

..::Electrical DIY Modifications::..

-Motor Brush Cleaning: You can do this by cutting a pencil eraser into the shape of the motor brush and put it on a toothpick or similar object. Then insert the pencil eraser into the crevice that the brush goes inside. Just give it a few turns and pokes, you will find lots of dark powdery stuff like from cleaning contacts.

-Contact Cleaning: If your Contacts are burnt, you can simply open up the electrical box in the gearbox and clean your contacts by polishing them off with a rotary tool and semi-hard bit, scraping them clean with high grit sand-paper, or even just scraping it off with your finger nail. You are basically removing the carbon build-up/“scarring” which prohibits a charge to flow through.

..::Successful DIY Modifications::..

Personally, I have had positive success with these mods:

Gearbox Polishing
Teflon Taping
Gearbox Break-in (although I used a slightly different method)
Molybdenum Greasing
Nub Padding
Contact Cleaning

*In the near future I will be attempting to Swiss Cheese a piston as well as short stroking with the same piston and gears

Thats the end of that.

This is a post a wrote as a guide to what parts you should upgrade in your AEG when raising the FPS to certain levels. Hope it hopes some people out.

Any TM gun you put a higher rated spring into needs to have metal bushings installed. This is because the stock bushings are plastic and can't take the higher stress from the upgraded spring. This also entails re-shimming the gearbox which is the hardest thing to do properly. I highly suggest either having a professional do this for you, or at the least have somebody who's done it before teach you how it's done properly. On a side note, running a 9.6v battery in a stock TM isn't a good ideal because it can heat up the stock plastic bushings too much and melt/deform them.

CA, G&P, G&G*, and ICS/AE already have metal bushings and don't necessarily need new ones for an upgraded spring (although remember high-quality aftermarket parts are almost always better than stock). *some of the older G&G and ICS guns still used plastic/nylon bushings.

GEARS: TM and CA stock gears are usually perfectly fine for up to 400 FPS for a period of time (as long as they're shimmed correctly. But of course I would rather pay $70 for a set of gears and be set for the long run; especially if a professional is doing the upgrade for you. Buying aftermarket gears will last much longer at 400 FPS than stock gears.

I don't recommend ALUMINUM piston heads and pistons. It doesn't flex. It's heavier so it hurts the gearbox more. It lowers your Rate-Of-Fire. It can break gearboxes with high FPS set-ups (especially the M4/M16 gearbox).

330 FPS

CA guns are already around 330 FPS, and have metal bushings; many CA guns however settle down to around 300-310 FPS.

To upgrade a TM gun to 330 FPS I would feel comfortable with just installing metal bushings, and a 330 FPS spring. I always recommend a PDI spring; and some people say a PDI spring works better with a metal guide rod with bearings so it can twist and turn freely (and the stock TM spring guide is plastic).

330 FPS is also the highest recommended FPS for a high-speed upgrade; you may be able to push it to 350 FPS but of course that will lower the ROF and put more stress on the gears and bearings. Your gun will shoot faster by installing what I mentioned above, and a 9.6v battery (or a 10.8+ battery at your own risk). To do it the proper way you need to install high-speed gears with bearing bushings (bearing bushings have ball bearings in them to spin faster), and a 9.6v battery. A Systema high-speed motor is always a nice touch. ---but since this gun will be shooting so much faster, to increase it's longevity I would upgrade other parts as well (Spring guide, piston, piston head, everything really).

350 FPS
A 350 FPS TM can be achieved by installing what I said above, but instead using a 350 FPS spring. A CA will only need a 350 FPS spring.

But, I always recommend replacing the guide rod, spring, piston, & piston head, to be safe.

I would at least get a polycarb Piston head with bearings. Systema, Prometheus, and Guarder make nice ones, and they're about $25. This is the first thing I would replace because it's what's getting slammed into the front of the gearbox, over and over again, every time you pull the trigger.

400 FPS

You can of course, just install metal bushings (if needed), and stick in a 400 FPS spring, but that's running the risk of destroying your gearbox, and something may break in a not-so-long time period.

At this level is where you should be asking yourself if you need gears or not. If you're already spending the money on all the other parts, I would definitely budget for a set of $75ish gears.

So, at 400 FPS, the bare minimum I would get is:

Metal Bushings
Spring Guide with Bearings
Polycarb Piston
Polycarb Piston head w/ bearings
9.6v battery


Gears (you know you want them)
Tappet plate (don't replace the TM one, it's excellent quality)

Anti-Reversal latch (this holds the gears steady if the spring is stuck partially back, it has lots of stress at 400 FPS but the stock part lasts for a good while)

Motor: TM motors really do last a long time (even my G&P came with one), but Systema and Eagle Force motors are also good but your battery life will be decreased with these (they're more power hungry than a TM motor is).

450ish FPS

This FPS limit is only for those who can work on their own guns; since your gun will most likely be breaking more often than you thought possible. This person has a large pocketbook, and many spare parts on hand to replace those that break every couple months or so from frequent games.

This is when you would open up your stock gearbox, and put every part but the trigger/wiring assembly in a plastic baggy labeled "spare parts" (and I would advise to even replace the wiring as well).

In addition to all the parts listed above, including the optional ones, I would also replace the Cylinder head. You also might want to consider the Systema Silent Piston Kit, or a Systema Bore-Up Cylinder kit (which are also excellent choices for the 400 FPS option). Many people recommend a re-enforced gearbox.

If you primarily use semi-auto and don't care about ROF I would get at least torque gears (semi-auto heats up the motor fast when rapidly shooting on standard ratio gears).

450ish and up FPS

If you're at this FPS level you're most likely over the FPS limit of most sanctioned fields. This this gun can be dangerous, people hear the BB's flying through the air. You've probably converted your rifle to semi-auto only, and use it in a designated marksman role. You probably use double torque up gears or higher, an upgraded motor, a huge battery, and know how to fix every problem your gearbox could possibly have. Replace everything at once, and keep spare parts handy.

Last edited by CStahl; 07-23-2009 at 09:48 PM.
Old 07-14-2010, 04:08 PM
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Thanks. Very good thread for upgrading any AEG. I will use this for my first upgrade. Maybe you can make a step-by-step dissasembly and reassembly of a gearbox. That would be nice
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Old 07-14-2010, 04:24 PM
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As stated, CStahl didn't make this guide, and the thread was posted 7/23/2009. It is now 7/14/2010.
Then outspake brave Horatius,
The captain of the gate:
"To every man upon this earth
Death cometh soon or late.
And how can man die better
Than facing fearful odds
For the ashes of his fathers
And the temples of his gods?"

Old 07-14-2010, 04:31 PM
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I wonder how people stumble onto these 1+ year dead threads...I sure cant find any...
Old 07-14-2010, 04:41 PM
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As for taking apart a gearbox, look on
Old 07-14-2010, 04:46 PM
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This is a bit dated. Case in point: most CA guns now clock in at around 400.
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Old 07-14-2010, 04:51 PM
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Systema Tightbore Barrels are also 6.04 not 6.03
Old 10-11-2011, 08:04 PM
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Thanks for the Info! I will keep that in mind before i purchase any GB upgrades.

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