Problems with WA xcellerator pistol

[Golfpride31]

Hey, my pal is having a problem with his WA xcellerator pistol. When he fired the gun, all the gas leaks out on the first shot. I know the mag is not the problem becuase it works in my P14. The night before this started happening he said he sprayed some WD40 in the pistol---- bad move, i know. he didnt know he wasnt supposed to. I have tried putting silicon oil in random places to see if it might help moisten somthing up, but it didnt seem to do help. Anyone know what needs to be fixed?

[KingsFan182]

Check the valves on the mag and the gas cylinder. Make sure he tries HFC134 as well.

[Golfpride31]

I have tried using 134a gas (duster with some silicon oil in the mag well) also, where are the o-rings located in the upper part of the gun (in the slide) are there any in the chamber, are there any in the block behind the chamber?

[KingsFan182]

If you take off the slide on the back of the slide there is a cylinder. Check to make sure it isn't cracked.

[Golfpride31]

the chamber looks to be in good condition to me...

[Decep]

Sounds like the WD40 destroyed the seals or somethin?

[DumboRAT]

Let's use this diagram:

http://www.wargameclub.com/gun-folder/sv5-install.htm

Look, if you will, at the your GBB's magazine.

First inspect the very top of the magazine, right behind the BB feed lips.

Is the blow-off gas-route-packing (part no. 57), that big rubber seal, both present and still intact?

If not, there's your problem right there, as a missing or highly damaged gas route packing can cause incorrect diversion of outgoing propellant significant enough to cause non-cycle with resultant instant mass purge.

If you pass the above inspection, we'll need to get a bit more sophisticated in our troubleshooting -- but before we get all happy in that respect, let's examine your GBB to first be sure that IT is not the primary cause of the problem.

Do a simple field-strip, and let's now have a look at the rear of the frame. Cock the hammer back (with the frame only), and trigger off a shot. You should see that the hammer falls smoothly, and rapidly and forcefully strike the firing pin (part no. 39), which will protrude into the GBB for a split second before it retracts back into the frame.

Next thing to check is the gas-disconnect on the left of the frame (holding the GBB as though you were going to fire it, pointing away from you, thus, the left side will be the side which the slide stop will protrude if you had this component in-place). Look at part no. 36 -- that's the gas disconnect. With the magazine out of the GBB, it should be "down" inside the frame. Now, with the slide still off the frame, slip in a magazine, but make sure that the locking tab on the valve (part no. 42) at the rear of the mag is "up" and engaged over the main valve button (main valve button "down"). This should cause the gas disconnect to pop up.

Provided that your GBB itself passes these two troubleshooting tests, it's now finally time to move on towards the magazine, and the area that we need to examine is the rear-of-magazine main valve.

With the mag empty of any gas, give this a valve a press or two while holding down the locking tab. Does it go in and out smoothly? Does it come to the proper resting position (does not pop up and over the locking tab) when you take your finger off it?

If either of these conditions fail, then my guess is that you've got a seal on the inside of the valve that's either damaged or outright displaced ("dislocated" -- literally "blown off"). Usually the stem seal/true valve seal (part no. 53) is to blame, and upon disassembly of the magazine, you'll find it to be displaced and now lodged within the valve stem assembly. When the mag is being charged, if you get it just right, you can get the seal to sit so that the pressure of the gas fill actually causes it to properly seal against the valve body, thus preventing any leaks. However, when you start to use the valve, the seal falls off of that "lucky" position, and the valve manifests the problems that are truly inside of it.

How to examine the valve body?

We've got to extract it from the magazine.

First, purge the magazine of any and all remaining gasses.

Using the proper hex-screw/Allen wrench, unscrew part no. 44. Following that, remove the locking tab assembly (collective of part 41, 42, and spring no. 60 -- be sure you don't lose the spring!) by pulling it out of the slot in which it sits in the mag. This may take a bit of force.

Once that is done, remove part 43, the gas-route-packing detent, from the top of the mag by slinding it off and to the rear, and carefully extract the gas route packing. Set these items aside for re-install after you've finished work on the valve -- I'm removing them because otherwise, they may be lost or accidentally damaged. Upon re-install, be sure that when you're putting the seal back into place that it properly wiggles all the way down in its base seat, and that as you insert the detent back into place that its "forks" do not damage the seal, but clear it to each side and lock it down into place properly.

Now, you should have the magazine's main seal exposed.

The easiest way to disassemble the valve is with the proper "valve tool," but lacking that, a pair of small-enough needle-nose pliers to clear the magazine's walls but large enough to still grasp the two "flat" sides of the valve will do just as well.

Here, remember that the valve, as a sacrificial component is made out of soft brass or softer aluminum than the rest of the mag, so scratching its exerior is definitely possible - albeit harmless - but that scratching or otherwise damaging its threads can lead to further gas leaks from those damaged threads. So keep your jury-rigged "valve tool" that are the pliers well away from the actual threading!

It's the same as any other screw -- counterclockwise will loosen the assembly.

Once you've got the valve backed out all the way, you'll be able to visualize its entire assembly.

Press "in" on the valve button and see if your stem seal has been displaced. If so, hook it out of and pop it back over the detent at the end of the valve stem, just ahead of the c-ring clip. You'll see a groove where it's suppose to go.

Re-assembly is reverse of the above directions. Just be careful as you re-insert the main valve body itself that you do not cross-thread with respect to the magazine body. If you do, again, you'll damage the valve's threads, and that can itself cause leaks.

We'll see where this troubleshooting takes us.

Best of luck!

Allen
aka DumboRAT